Claremont Coptic Encyclopedia 28 January 2018
dayr abu daraj: update
Jan Ciglenečki Keywords: Monasteries; Hermitages; Buildings; Hermits; History; Eastern Desert (Egypt); Red Sea; Greek and Coptic language; Graffiti; Dipinti; Inscriptions.
dayr abu daraj.1 The monastic complex of dayr abu daraj with its adjacent semi-anchoritic settlement (also known as laura Wadi Abu Darag) is situated along the Red Sea coast approximately 68 km south of Suez, between the modern towns of Ayn Sukhna and Za„farana. Historically, the northeastern part of the Eastern Desert belonged to the region known as “the Mountain of St. Anthony,” which encompassed a topographically diverse area in the broader surroundings of the dayr anba antuniyus (St. Anthony‟s) and dayr anba bula (St.
Paul‟s) monasteries (Martin 1970: 185).
Epigraphical and ceramological analysis indicates that laura Wadi Abu Daraj was occupied by Christian hermits from the end of the Byzantine era to the beginning of the Arab period, i.e., between the late 6th century and the first half of the 7th century CE (Ghica et al. 2008: 119, 132). On Father claude sicard‟s map from 1717 CE, the site is mentioned as “ruines du monastère el Daragi ou de St. Jean Climaque” (Martin 1966: 139). Among the monasteries of the eastern desert the closest analogy to the laura Wadi Abu Daraj can be drawn with laura wadi naqqat, located in the area of ancient mons porphyrites, more than 250 km to the south.
Geographical setting The ruins of laura Wadi Abu Daraj lie scattered on the eastern footslopes of the North Galala plateau (Jabal al-Jalalah al-Bahriyyah) and are oriented toward the east, overlooking the Gulf of Suez. This uneven terrain, stretching between Wadi Qisayb on the south and Wadi Abu Daraj on the north, consists of low hills with natural terraces and gradually leads to a towering escarpment on the west. The site thus perfectly reflects its Arabic name “Abu Daraj,” which means “that of the steps” (Martin 1970: 180).
The rugged topography of Wadi Abu Daraj (wad) can be roughly divided into four major layers of elevation (numbered wad i-iv, from lowest to highest elevation). Just above sea level lies wad I, an open undulating plain covered by a thin layer of scrubby sand, that divides the coast from the rocky foothills some 350 meters to the west. Where the low hills commence and the terrain rises slightly, the first set of terraces marks the beginning of the wad ii elevation. These lower moderate slopes gradually lead over a steeper terrain of loose rocky stones up to the wad iii elevation, which spreads across the flat-topped ridges and under the rocky ledges beneath. wad iv, the fourth and highest elevation of the laura, begins further up to the west and © Claremont Graduate University 1 Jan Ciglenečki, Dayr Abu Daraj: Update 28 January 2018 borders on the progressively higher slopes underneath the lofty eastern cliffs of the North Galala massif.
Wadi Abu Daraj I (wad I) Before the Suez-Za„farana road was paved, the northern parts of the Red Sea coast were little trodden and rarely visited by travelers (Fontaine 1955–1956: 75–81). Sir John Gardner Wilkinson was the first to pay attention to the ruins at the lower-lying parts of Wadi Abu Daraj during his less-known second trip to the Eastern Desert in 1826. His field notes, however, remained unknown until the mid-20th century, when Littmann and Meredith published excerpts from Wilkinson‟s manuscripts in their study of the Nabatean inscriptions from Egypt (Littmann and Meredith 1953; Martin 1970: 174). Like Wilkinson, the few earlier reports on Wadi Abu Daraj (Fourtau 1900: 531–534; Scaife 1936: 63–64; Meredith 1952; Fontaine 1955–1956) focused mainly on the flat stretch of littoral plain (i.e., the wad I elevation). Soon afterwards, this area was largely disturbed by modern construction activities, which were carried out without any form of record or assessment to ensure the documentation or protection of the site.
The scarce information from the earlier reports, written before any serious development and associated damage had occurred, suggest that the remains of three larger complexes (wad I/1-3) were previously visible on the surface of the lowland plain. [Fig. 1] Figure 1 © Claremont Graduate University 2 Jan Ciglenečki, Dayr Abu Daraj: Update 28 January 2018 wad I/1: The large rectangular ruins that occupied the low-lying part of wad I, were enclosed by dry-stone and crude brick walls and measured approximately 450 m in perimeter. On the southern side of the enclosure the basis of what seemed to be a tower abutted on an 8-9 m high rock outcrop. [Figs. 2-3] Some isolated remains are still visible amidst the modern constructions today, but due to the rapid development of the area their complete destruction is only a question of time. In a north-western direction a series of small habitations (approx. 3 m in length) were visible on the inside of the enclosure (Scaife 1936: 63; Fontaine 1955–1956: 57-59). A water source (bir), which was in use until recently, was located at the northwestern corner of wad I/1, marked by a palm tree. [Fig. 4] On the plain north of wad I/1 there was a large enclosed space with no ruins inside, suggesting that it might once have served as a garden (Fontaine 1955–1956: 59).
Nearby, on the rocky flanks to the west, Wilkinson discovered barely visible fragments of Greek and Coptic inscriptions (Littmann and Meredith 1953: 27; Fontaine 1955–1956: 68; Martin 1970: 174; Ghica et al. 2008: 132–133). The names of “J. Burton” and “Dupuy” with the date “1830” were also cut into a rock (Scaife 1936: 64).
wad I/2: Approx. 75 m closer to the sea, and situated amidst the sand dunes, stood the slightly elevated remains of a quadrangular enclosure, each side measuring about 45 m. Meredith and Fontaine thought these ruins to be the remains of a Roman fort (Littmann and Meredith 1953: 27; Fontaine 1955–1956: 59).
wad I/3: The third complex was an elongated building (20 m x 5 m), oriented in an east-west direction. The remains of a vaulted ceiling, niches, semicircular windows and doors were visible. Its high crude brick walls stood on a rubble base and were covered with plaster (Scaife 1936: 64). This complex was interpreted by Wilkinson and Fontaine as a church and chapel respectively (Fontaine 1955–1956: 59–60, note 1; Martin 1970: 179). [Fig. 5] The abovementioned remains (particularly the enclosed areas with their small, cell-like compartments, a tower, and what was probably a church and a garden) make it reasonable to assume that they once formed the monastic complex known as Dayr Abu Daraj (Meredith 1952: 27; Martin 1970: 179).
© Claremont Graduate University 3 Jan Ciglenečki, Dayr Abu Daraj: Update 28 January 2018 Figure 2 (Courtesy of Michael Jones) Figure 3 (Courtesy of Michael Jones) © Claremont Graduate University 4 Jan Ciglenečki, Dayr Abu Daraj: Update 28 January 2018 Figure 4 (Courtesy of Michael Jones) Figure 5 (Source: Fontaine 1955–1956, Pl. IV) © Claremont Graduate University 5 Jan Ciglenečki, Dayr Abu Daraj: Update 28 January 2018 Wadi Abu Daraj II (wad ii) West of the lowland plain, a slight rise of terrain marks the wad ii elevation. Two series of simple structures (wad ii/1-5 and wad ii/7-9), marked by barely visible low walls of poor quality, were located on the terraces at the outermost edges of the low hills. [Figs. 6-9] The original function of these ruins is difficult to determine (Fontaine 1955–1956: 61; Martin 1970: 178, note 1).
Among the remains on the second level, the buildings wad ii/9 and wad ii/10 stood out due to their superior masonry, solid walls and abundance of the surrounding surface pottery, resembling the better-preserved hermitages on the next wad iii elevation. [Figs. 10-12] Sadly, the recent construction of a new highway has cut directly through this elevation layer and destroyed the remains of wad ii/2-3 and wad ii/9-10. [Figs. 13-14] Figure 6 © Claremont Graduate University 6 Jan Ciglenečki, Dayr Abu Daraj: Update 28 January 2018 Figure 7 Figure 8 © Claremont Graduate University 7 Jan Ciglenečki, Dayr Abu Daraj: Update 28 January 2018 Figure 9 Figure 10 © Claremont Graduate University 8 Jan Ciglenečki, Dayr Abu Daraj: Update 28 January 2018 Figure 11 Figure 12 © Claremont Graduate University 9 Jan Ciglenečki, Dayr Abu Daraj: Update 28 January 2018 Figure 13 Figure 14 © Claremont Graduate University 10 Jan Ciglenečki, Dayr Abu Daraj: Update 28 January 2018 Two structures on the wad ii elevation were located further away from the others, deeper inside the two smaller wadis, which taper out into the low plain of wad I.
The first building (wad ii/6) is situated at the foothills near the head of the wadi. [Figs. 6 and 15] It is a relatively well-preserved quadrangular edifice (2.75 m x 2.75 m) with remains of a vaulted ceiling, plastered walls with three niches, a small window and a semi-enclosure on its eastern side (Fontaine 1955–1956: 61–62; Martin 1970: 176). [Fig. 16] The last structure on this elevation was wad ii/11 (not mentioned in earlier reports), located in the dry riverbed of the wadi at the northernmost part of the settlement. Its loose dry-stone walls were constructed to fit under a huge boulder. [Fig. 17] The original terrain has been eradicated by recent construction activities and is unrecognizable today. No traces remain from wad ii/11.
Figure 15 © Claremont Graduate University 11 Jan Ciglenečki, Dayr Abu Daraj: Update 28 January 2018 Figure 16 Figure 17 © Claremont Graduate University 12 Jan Ciglenečki, Dayr Abu Daraj: Update 28 January 2018 Wadi Abu Daraj iii (wad iii) On the southernmost edge of wad I, some 400 hundred meters south of bir Abu Daraj, where a huge acacia tree once stood (often mentioned in earlier reports but cut down during recent construction activities), a boulder-choked gully strikes into the mountain. It is a strenuous hike up the steep slope towards the next wad iii elevation. At an elevation of approx. 70 m, at the right-hand side of the trail stands a cave hermitage designated wad iii/1. It is built in a natural cavity under a rugged overhanging rock ledge. A narrow entrance facing northeast and a small window on its southern wall are still visible (Martin 1966: 142; Ghica et al. 2008: 116). [Figs. 18-20] Figure 18 © Claremont Graduate University 13 Jan Ciglenečki, Dayr Abu Daraj: Update 28 January 2018 Figure 19 Figure 20 © Claremont Graduate University 14 Jan Ciglenečki, Dayr Abu Daraj: Update 28 January 2018 Further up, at the top of this steep stretch, a large rocky saddle opens up, where two hermitages (wad iii/3 and wad iii/4) stand at an altitude of approx. 80 m (Martin 1966: 142–143; Ghica et al. 2008: 117). [Fig. 21-23] The westernmost hermitage (wad iii/4) has well-preserved dry-stone walls, reaching up to 1.90 m high.
Its layout consists of four compartments, i.e., three elongated side rooms opening into a central quadrangular hall (5 m x 5 m). Niches and windows with lintels are still visible in the walls. [Figs. 24-26] The second hermitage (wad iii/3), consisting of twin juxtaposed compartments, is located a few meters southeast of wad iii/4. Its northeastern walls have recently suffered major damage and have been razed to the ground by bulldozers. [Figs. 27-29] Plenty of surface pottery has been found on the barren plain near the hermitages (Ghica et al. 2008: 117–119). Crumbled walls of another smaller quadrangular (2.5 m x 2.5 m) structure (wad iii/2) lie at the southeastern edge of the plateau and have been interpreted as a guard house (Ghica et al. 2008: 117).
Figure 21 © Claremont Graduate University 15 Jan Ciglenečki, Dayr Abu Daraj: Update 28 January 2018 Figure 22 Figure 23 © Claremont Graduate University 16 Jan Ciglenečki, Dayr Abu Daraj: Update 28 January 2018 Figure 24 Figure 25 © Claremont Graduate University 17 Jan Ciglenečki, Dayr Abu Daraj: Update 28 January 2018 Figure 26 Figure 27 © Claremont Graduate University 18 Jan Ciglenečki, Dayr Abu Daraj: Update 28 January 2018 Figure 28 Figure 29 © Claremont Graduate University 19 Jan Ciglenečki, Dayr Abu Daraj: Update 28 January 2018 Just beneath the saddle plain, three minor structures (wad iii/5-7) are located under the natural rock ledges, both on the eastern and western side of the ridge. Their collapsed remains (not mentioned in previous reports) are camouflaged in the jagged rocky terrain of darker scoria and are often difficult to spot.
Compared to the hermitages wad iii/3 and wad iii/4, these shelters are of poorer quality, with smaller and often indistinguishable walls. [Figs. 30-33] Figure 30 Figure 31 © Claremont Graduate University 20 Jan Ciglenečki, Dayr Abu Daraj: Update 28 January 2018 Figure 32 Figure 33 © Claremont Graduate University 21 Jan Ciglenečki, Dayr Abu Daraj: Update 28 January 2018 Further up in a northward direction, following the natural course of the rocky ridge towards a conspicuous outcrop, stand the remains of two structures, wad iii/8 and wad iii/9. [Fig. 34] The larger one, wad iii/8, consists of five irregular and heavily ruined compartments.
The remains of niches are still visible (Fontaine 1955–1956: 62–63). [Figs. 35-36] Nearby, stones arranged into a narrow stairway descend to the natural terrace where a small rectangular (3 m x 4 m) structure stands (wad iii/9), with its northern side leaning on the rocky mountain slope (Fontaine 1955–1956: 63). [Figs. 37-38 and 60] A few meters above this, the summit offers unobstructed views over wad I and wad ii with the Red Sea and Sinai peninsula visible in the distance. [Fig. 13 and 36] Figure 34 © Claremont Graduate University 22 Jan Ciglenečki, Dayr Abu Daraj: Update 28 January 2018 Figure 35 Figure 36 © Claremont Graduate University 23 Jan Ciglenečki, Dayr Abu Daraj: Update 28 January 2018 Figure 37 Figure 38 © Claremont Graduate University 24 Jan Ciglenečki, Dayr Abu Daraj: Update 28 January 2018 Wadi Abu Daraj IV (wad iv) From the hermitage wad iii/4, a faint trail of unstable rocks making the walk difficult continues in a northwest direction, skirting the eastern crags of the sloping mountain until it reaches the uppermost layer of the laura (wad iv). The remains of three structures were found on this level, two of them (wad iv/2 and wad iv/3) serving as temporary shelters rather than living quarters. The highest structure of the laura was wad iv/3 (not mentioned in earlier reports), lying at an altitude of approx. 140 m.
It was built in a shady spot under an overhanging rock and had magnificent views in the northeastern direction. [Figs. 39-40] Only a few pottery shards have been found on its rugged surface. The little that remains of its crumbled walls was recently demolished by falling stones from the construction site above it. The second structure, wad iv/2, stood at a lower altitude of approx. 80 m. It was built in a natural cliff cavity, which overlooks the bir Abu Daraj. No pottery was found in the vicinity of wad iv/2 (Ghica et al. 2008: 132).
Figure 39 Figure 40 © Claremont Graduate University 25 Jan Ciglenečki, Dayr Abu Daraj: Update 28 January 2018 The most remarkable hermitage of laura Wadi Abu Daraj was wad iv/1, famous for its numerous Greek and Coptic graffiti (Martin 1966: 143–144; Ghica et al. 2008: 120–132). It was an elongated edifice (15 m x 3 m), constructed under a natural rock ledge at an altitude of 106 meters. [Figs. 41-42] The eastern wall supported a small overhanging roof and was dotted with windows. [Figs. 43-44] It consisted of three compartments, separated by plastered walls, and a small covered courtyard in front of the entrance. [Figs. 45-46] The ceiling of the hermitage was on average 1.8 m high, with the entrance door measuring only 1.4 m. There was an abundance of pottery lying on the surface few meters below the courtyard (Ghica et al. 2008: 131–132). Figure 41 © Claremont Graduate University 26 Jan Ciglenečki, Dayr Abu Daraj: Update 28 January 2018 Figure 42 Figure 43 Figure 44 © Claremont Graduate University 27 Jan Ciglenečki, Dayr Abu Daraj: Update 28 January 2018 Figure 45 Figure 46 © Claremont Graduate University 28 Jan Ciglenečki, Dayr Abu Daraj: Update 28 January 2018 The plastered inner walls of the wad iv/1 hermitage were inscribed with graffiti, dipinti, and various decorative elements.
Fragments of graffiti consisted mainly of personal names in Greek and Coptic, and were found in all three compartments. [Figs. 45 and 47-51] When Father Maurice Martin visited the hermitage in the late 1960s, he noted several other inscriptions on the plaster around the niche, which was built into the northern wall of the third room and presumably served as a private altar (Martin 1966: 143–144; Ghica et al. 2008: 126–131). [Figs. 52-53] Apart from these graffiti, he also found “une grande croix allongée, posée sur des gradins, ornée de feuillages et entourée d‟une couronne” in the first room of the building (Martin 1970: 178). Both the inscriptions and the drawings were soon afterwards vandalized and scratched off, but at least the inscriptions have remained documented in Father Martin‟s photographs.2 A series of crosses was painted both on the ceiling of the third compartment [Fig. 53] and on the walls of the second compartment. [Fig. 54] On the outer side of the hermitage, perpendicular with the entrance wall, stood a sandstone stela with Greek and Coptic inscriptions, mainly anthroponyms. [Figs. 55-58] For a detailed epigraphical analysis of the inscriptions from wad iv/1 see Ghica et al. 2008: 120–131.
Figure 47 © Claremont Graduate University 29 Jan Ciglenečki, Dayr Abu Daraj: Update 28 January 2018 Figure 48 Figure 49 © Claremont Graduate University 30 Jan Ciglenečki, Dayr Abu Daraj: Update 28 January 2018 Figure 50 Figure 51 © Claremont Graduate University 31 Jan Ciglenečki, Dayr Abu Daraj: Update 28 January 2018 Figure 52 (Courtesy of ifao) © Claremont Graduate University 32 Jan Ciglenečki, Dayr Abu Daraj: Update 28 January 2018 Figure 53(Courtesy of ifao) Figure 54 © Claremont Graduate University 33 Jan Ciglenečki, Dayr Abu Daraj: Update 28 January 2018 Figure 55 Figure 56 © Claremont Graduate University 34 Jan Ciglenečki, Dayr Abu Daraj: Update 28 January 2018 Figure 57 Figure 58 © Claremont Graduate University 35 Jan Ciglenečki, Dayr Abu Daraj: Update 28 January 2018 The recent construction of two multi-lane highways, running in a north-south direction almost parallel to each other, caused irreversible damage to the historical monuments on all four levels of Wadi Abu Daraj. The entire area of wad iv elevation was buried under tons of rubble and became a landfill for the construction of the higher road, which otherwise avoids the laura and runs some 100 m west of it.
The works on the highways‟ massive embankments also had deplorable consequences for the hermitage wad iv/1. [Figs. 59-62] Figure 59 Figure 60 © Claremont Graduate University 36 Jan Ciglenečki, Dayr Abu Daraj: Update 28 January 2018 Figure 61 Figure 62 © Claremont Graduate University 37 Jan Ciglenečki, Dayr Abu Daraj: Update 28 January 2018 Conclusion A large part of the rest of Wadi Abu Daraj faced a similar fate as the wad iv elevation layer. In light of this relentless transformation of the area, it is even more regretful that in the past the site has only been studied in parts and no comprehensive map of its general layout was ever made. Taking all previous reports into consideration, the number of ancient structures amounts to 21 (three larger complexes on the wad I, 10 structures on the wad ii, six on the wad iii and two on the wad iv elevation). If we add the five structures which seem to have remained unnoticed by previous scholars (wad ii/11, wad iii/5-7 and wad iv/3), we can conclude that the entire site consisted of (at least) 26 structures in total.
At the time of writing (January 2018) a rough estimation would be that more than two thirds of the ancient site of Dayr Abu Daraj and its surrounding laura have been irreversibly damaged. wad iv has been completely destroyed and only a very small part of wad I remains, with its total destruction being only a question of time. Six out of 11 structures on wad ii and most of the buildings on the wad iii elevation have escaped destruction for now, with the exception of one severely damaged hermitage (wad iii/3). Satellite footage of the site (taken before and after the recent construction activities) is presented in Figs. 63-64, the red pinpoints indicating the destroyed buildings, the yellow showing the damaged ones, and the white the still-existing structures.
© Claremont Graduate University 38 Jan Ciglenečki, Dayr Abu Daraj: Update 28 January 2018 Figure 63 (Source: Google Earth) Figure 64 (Source: Google Earth) © Claremont Graduate University 39 Jan Ciglenečki, Dayr Abu Daraj: Update 28 January 2018